After an arduous trek through the jungle, on the top of Ramboda Hills (on the Kandy -‐ Gampola -‐ Nuwara-‐Eliya Road), a grassy path attracts the eye. The mind immediately starts wondering how this path has remained intact in spite of the dense foliage around! Villagers from the hamlets
nearby will calmly tell you that it was created by Ravana’s chariot. Yes, that is exactly what the tales
passed down from generations tell you. The path was created, says legend, when Ravana was taking Sita around his kingdom to show off the paradise on earth that was his – Lankapura! He hoped that she would be appeased and give in to his advances. Till date, this path lies barren.
What is even more amazing is the fact that this path is strewn with what looks like stones to the layman; but closer observation reveals them to be far lighter and softer. The villagers collect what they refer to as Sita Gulli because they seem to have magical medicinal properties. They believe that these were the vitaminized rice balls that were offered to Sita by Ravana, which she flung from the chariot all along the route. Independent carbon dating tests carried out in Tokyo and Delhi have proved that these gray lumpy masses date back to more than 5000 years ago.
Sri Lanka, whose capital in olden days was called Lankapura has numerous sites which till date are known by their old names and have a deep connect with the tale all Indians have grown up with – the Ramayana. A lot of these sites now have temples built on them as a mark of respect. And the beauty about all these temples is that they still hold onto their sanctity and are totally non-‐commercial.
En route the Chariot path, you also pass a small pond, which you may assume has formed due to accumulation of rain water. But this is no ordinary pond as it never dries up -‐ not even during the fiercest of droughts because the water is no ordinary water; it is said the pond was formed by the tears that Sita longingly shed for Rama. This pond is called the Sita Tear Pond.
Close to a quaint, charming town called Nuwara Eliya (approximately 75 kms from Kandy), which still bears the stamp of British colonisation, there is a village called Seetha Ellia which is home to the Sita Amma Temple. This temple is built on the exact spot where she is believed to have meditated and where she was held captive in Askok Vatika. In the surroundings of the temple one can still see a lot of Ashoka trees. Around a century ago, three statues were excavated from the vicinity of the temple, one amongst them was that of Sita Amma which now forms the main shrine of the Sita Amma temple. There is a huge rock facing the temple where you get to see gigantic footprints and some normal sized ones embedded in them. These are believed to be made by Lord Hanuman and the different sizes depict the fact that he was able to transform himself to any size.
The temple itself is built on the tenets of modern architecture but is beautiful and quaint -‐ much like its surrounding town of Nuwara Eliya… serene and dreamy and partly lost in the mist!
One very thrilling and picturesque drive from Kandy which involves 18 hairpin bends takes you to Gurulupottha which legend says was Ravana’s aircraft repair centre. A short trek starting from here takes one to Sita Kotuwa. The forest is so dense that the sun’s rays barely reach the soft leaf covered ground. After about an hour’s trek through an enchanting forest, one comes across the remains of an ancient civilization. The ruins do not tell you much, but this was exactly the place on which Queen Mandodari’s palace once stood in the capital Lankapura. It was surrounded by lush green trees, which have probably stood the test of time, though the palace itself hasn’t. Gushing streams and gurgling waterfalls which you can hear from a distance and some amazing flora and fauna give an idea of the grandeur of the royal household it must have once been in the hoary past. It is believed that Sita was kept in this very palace till she was shifted to the Ashok Vatika. Steps lead you further into the forest and into a stream from where you can see the mouth of a limestone cave beyond which lie Ravana’s famed network of tunnels.
These tunnels crisscross the length and breadth of Sri Lanka and makes one wonder about the phenomenon that Ravana was. He must have indeed been a very intelligent man to have his whole kingdom connected underground for quick transport, and had the technology to enable airports and aircraft! Probably a very ancient and advanced civilization perished right here making way for the current one!
Hanuman, whose tail was set on fire as a punishment to teach conceited Ravana and his army a lesson, in turn set afire lot of places in the kingdom. Ussangoda (situated in the Southern Coast between Ambalantota and Tangalle). is one such place. Till date, it bears a scorched look. No vegetation grows here in spite of it being surrounded by lush green and dense forest on all sides. The soil is of a darker colour and if you happen to break open the crust, you will see the burnt interiors.
Another piece of land that lies barren is Yudhuganawa or the battlefield, inside Wasgamuwa National Park (located in the districts of Matale and Polonnaruwa at a distance of 225 km away from Colombo). This piece of land is believed to be barren because it still bears the brunt of destruction in the war between Rama and Ravana’s armies. Nothing grows on the entire stretch except grass.
The Sanjeevani Drops are mini mountains found at five places namely Rumassala in Galle, Dolukanda in Hiripitiya, Ritigala close to Habarana, Talladi in Mannar and Katchchathivu in the north. These do not topographically match Sri Lanka and neither does the vegetation found on it. The closest match it finds is with the vegetation and the soil of the Himalayas, from where they have believed to be originated. Hanuman carried an entire mountain from the Himalayas since he could not identify the life saving Sanjeevani herb on it and when in flight, dropped pieces that form the Sanjeevani drops. Extremely rare herbs are found on each of these five pieces of land even today. They are also a bird watchers delight as the varied flora attracts many exotic birds.
At Kanniya (about 10 kms from Trincomalee on the eastern coast), where Ravana performed the last rites of his mother, there are seven small wells which bear water of varying temperatures. It is believed that Ravana, angry at not finding any water around to perform the rituals, pierced the ground seven times with his trident. With each thrust, water started gushing out, and this in turn, cooled him. The temperature of the water also came down along with his anger. These seven kunds (reservoirs) are a testimony to that event.
There are many such tales all around Sri Lanka that make this country so interesting. Whether you are a believer or not, you are left enchanted.
Sri Lanka is a land of loving people and immense greenery which is very pleasing to the soul. The Ramayana trail which took us through the entire length and breadth of Sri Lanka beckons you to explore this land and its stories. It would have been nice if a joint package of the Ramayana Trail is offered to the traveller... then one would get to see the part that happened in India as well!